A polyester material is used because it will extend with the coverings. (Fiberglas material is not advised.) Material is usually cut to extend three inches beyond the fixed area in all instructions. The finishing is used to the roof surface area and the material is right away pressed into the damp surface.
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If your roofing has stucco parapets, examine them for fractures along the sides and top. These locations typically permit water to enter the wall and can trigger blisters and wrinkles in the roof surface. Repair with Elastek 103 Crack & Joint Sealant. If you do not have parapets, take a look at the metal drip edge for a tight seal with the roof membrane.
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Apply finishing when the roofing system is dry and the sealant has set. You will be utilizing a 9-inch durable frame, -inch paint roller for spreading out covering on roofing system or 1-1/4-inch roller for dipping in pail, and a 5to-6-foot extension pole. Utilize a 3/4-inch roller with basecoats and emulsions. Map out your roofing system and make each pail fill that location.
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An affordable 3-inch or 4-inch brush must be utilized to reach areas not possible with a roller. Use a stiff paintbrush for using 103 Crack & Joint Sealant. Overcoat needs to constantly be used in an extremely thick coat, to accomplish a rate of 100 sq. ft. per gallon, and a dry finishing density of 10 mils.
Coatings are used with a minimum of working the item for an optimum density. Work right from the pail, dipping the roller or soak roofing system and spread. Offer scupper and ponding locations a number of extra coats for added defense. Enable each coat to dry before recoating. In cool weather, one coat a day is the maximum; 2 might be possible in the summer season.
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ft. per gallon, or a minimum of 20 mils dry coating. If two complete topcoats are not applied, constantly use 2 thick coats to problem areas such as scuppers, drain locations, ponding locations, joints, and repaired locations. Avoid utilizing Elastek Solar Magic or The Guard on ponding roofings. Tidy skin and tools promptly with water.
These are the wires linking the roof venting fan. I clipped them just above the blue splice joints. Roofing system vent eliminated and tidied up. After clipping the wire and removing the vent, I tidied up any staying goop and got my very first excellent appearance at the roofing system frame. It's metal! 1 1/2 inches thick.
Some RV roofings are framed with wood, others have metal framing. I had no concept what remained in my camper till this point. Not too happy about the amount of rust on it, but ideally it is still structurally sound! I removed some rust and made a huge mess inside the restroom.
Oops. Maybe I must have put a tarpaulin down initially. My last goal of the day was to get the fridge vent cover off. I observed RV sealant blobs at four points on the cover so assumed there should be screws under them. I pried them up and discovered Phillips screw heads.
Exposing the screws in the refrigerator vent cap. Removing old Recreational Vehicle roofing system finishing on top of fridge vent cap I likewise observed that there was a coat of Recreational Vehicle roof finishing over the vent cap. These coatings are painted on with a brush so clearly whoever did this coating simply blobbed in on top of everything.
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Raising off the cover of the fridge roofing vent. When the cap is off it's more of the exact same. Cutting away more rubber and removing Recreational Vehicle roofing sealant and old caulk. Get comfortable since this sucker has 32 screws in it! Ugh. Scraping lap sealant and caulk from screw heads.
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Some screws will be too rusted and need pliers to eliminate. Prying off the fridge roof vent after all screws are eliminated. (and the tools used.) Almost every screw was in excellent enough condition to eliminate with a socket chauffeur, however a couple were too rusty and required to be twisted out with vice grip pliers.
I removed the remaining rubber roof from under the flange and then removed the old putty below. I'll clean it much better if and when I choose to recycle it. Appears like it remains in good shape so I most likely will. Scraping off the old putty from the flange of the fridge roof vent.
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I scraped the framing inside the opening and discovered that the framing around the refrigerator vent is made from wood (unlike the metal frame around the roofing system vent.) Then I covered it up with a scrap of wood so I would not drop any junk into the fins on the back of the refrigerator! Here's a peek inside the fridge vent.
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That's as far as I got on day 1 after about 5 hours of lazy work. Not a bad start. I also discovered this amazing slime mold growing in the mulch under the camper. If you have actually never seen a slime mold, check out a long time lapses of them growing! They are freaking amazing! A slime mold under the camper! Now continue to step 2 when I remove the rest of the roofing fixtures!.
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